Tuesday, December 29, 2015

Monday was my best day since leaving the hospital. Probably because I was physically active, I surfed a large part of the day. At the end of the day it was a good tired from physical exertion, not from the depression.

On Sunday the surf forecast was promising, swells a meter to a meter and a half and a brisk off shore breeze. When we arrived at the beach it was better than I'd hoped. While the waves weren't as powerful as I'd like, but the strong off shore winds smoothed the waves to a glassy surface and held up the lips allowing the wave to break as a tunnel rather than collapse on itself.

I'd brought 3 boards with me, the Malibu that is great in a lot of conditions but particularly smaller waves, the Fish that has similar attributes but offers more performance if the surf can provide it and my Pod Mod, a high performance short board. I started with the Fish and came back after a couple of rides for the Pod Mod.

Denise spent the morning in Buster's cozy cabin, catching up on her reading. She made lunch and when it was ready she turned the parking lights on as my signal to come in.

I plan to build on yesterday!



Anonymous Anonymous said...

Hey Kim! Have you been seeing clients in the past few months?

9:45 PM  
Anonymous Anonymous said...

Ride the up! - M

4:20 PM  

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